Apparatus for waving hair



APPARATUS FOR WAVING HAIR Filed Nov. 9, 1945 Fc .6 F' .,5 23 1.9

INVENTOR.

4Patented Aug. 26, 1952 TES l UNITEDv s Aram OFFICE This invention relates generally to an apparatus for Waving and treating human hair and more particularly to the process of app-lying a permanent wave to longhair and treating it to restore or produce a natural softness of the waved hair. v

Unless the human hair is supplied with a sufricient amount of natural oil the treatment and heat applied during the process of afxing aV permanent wave thereto leaves the hair lifeless and sometimes brittle. If a permanent wave is applied to the same portion of the hair that has been waved before, the hair becomes very brittle and will readily break.

VThe principal object of this invention is the provision of a process ofy treating hair when a permanent wave is being Aapplied thereto which will revitalize the cellular pithy interior making it naturally soit. This may be produced by `adding an agent to the hair while it is still hot from the heat treatment of the permanent wave. l

Another object is the provision of an apparatus for` applying a permanent wave to the new growth of a long strand of hair from the old permanent to the scalp.

Other objects and advantages appear in the following description and claims. l

A practical embodiment illustrating the structure employed in carrying out the principles of this invention is shown in the accompanyingr drawing wherein: v i l Fig. 1 is a sectional view of a hair waving rod forming a part of this invention.

Fig.`,2 is a side elevation showing the hair wavn ing rodmounted onta clamp. l

Y Fig. V3 is a plan view of the structure shown in Fig. 2. v l

v'igz 4 is a perspective view of the hair clamp. Fig. 5 is a View showing a strand of hair being started on a rod for the purpose of applying a permanent waveto the new growth of hair.

Fig 6 is a view showing the hair strand of Fig.-5 completely wound on the rod and applied to the clamp in preparation for va permanent wave. Y 1

Referring to the drawing, the hair .wavingrod lois made of any suitable material andis somewhat similarto the'rods disclosed in Patents Nos.v 2,232,009 and 2,289,446 in regard rto its size but its structure and shape are diierent. The lengthy of this rod is preferably the same as that of a standard croquignole. rod and is constructed to nt the crocpiignole hair clamps and heating apparatus. As shown in Fig. l the rod I0 is substantially cylindrical and is made in twor sections II and I2. The section II comprisesl a cylindrical mandrel portion I3 having a short stub shaft I4 extending axially from one'end and a long shaft I5 extending from the other end. These shafts are preferably formed integral with the mandrel I3. v A nger clamp I3 is hinged to the cylindrical section I3 bythe pin Ill and is shaped to fit the mandrel `for the purpose of holding the hair strand as'thelatter is wound around the mandrel and the ringer clamp.

i The mandrel section I2 consists of a cylindrical portion I3, a bearing surface 2c, a ratchet gear 2I, a hub 22 and a large knurled finger grip 23 which are preferably formed in one integral piece.

The section I2 is bored out as indicated at 24 to permit it to be slid over and become journaled on the long shaft I5. lThe inner ends 25 and 26 of the cylindrical portions I3 and I8 closely t one another to prevent any hair from being caught or wedged therebetween and to provide a continuous rod surface, since these portions are of the same diameter. Y

The outer end of the long shaft I5 extends beyond the mandrel section I3 and is slotted at 2S to receive the winged thumb handle 39 which may be riveted in place.

As illustrated in Fig. 1 the outer end'of the finger grip 23 is hollowed out to form the cylindrical chamber 3i for the purpose of receiving some form of ratchet, unidirectional locking de. vice or clutch that permits one mandrel section to be rotated independently of the other. As shown in Fig. l an expansible friction clutch is employed, which consists of a strap 32 of spring metal such as steel or bronze, having one end 33 passing through the'slot28 of the shaft I5. and extending radially as at 3% to the inner perimetral drum surface 35 of the chamber 3i and then formed to 1 lie as a band in mating engagement therewith for approximately the full circumference thereof as indicated at 36. The spring clutch strap 32 is secured in any suitable manner in the slot 28 such as by a wedgeV or pin and the inner end 33 is bent at an angle to the plane of the slot 28 to provide a stop gauge for that radial portion 34 toy thereby properly locate the band portion 36 relative to the inner drum face 35 of the chamber 3|. The band section 38 is formed tov exert a pressure against the drum surface 35 so that. by turning the rod by the winged grip 30 the whole of the rod will rotate, but when the knurlediinger grip 23 is held only the mandrel section II may berotated by the winged grip.

Again ifthe rodis free to rotate both mandrel sections I I andI 2 maybe rotated by turning the knurled ringer grip 23. If the mandrel section II has a strand of hair fastened thereto it may be independently tightened by the winged grip 3l and the mandrel section I2 may be subsequently tightened by the nger grip 23 which turns both sections II and I2 until the former is tight relative to the latter and the latter will turn alone until the strand of hair is tight on the rod.

The clutch strap 32 is made suiliciently wide to ll the space between the radial face 31 of the chamber 31 and the inner edge of the winged grip 30 so as to maintain this two-part rod in assembled relation with no clearance between the abutting ends 25 and 26 of the mandrel sections II and I2. l

The hair clamp which carries the lrod I0, is similar to the conventional type of h'ai'r clamp and comprises the base 4I having the upwardly open bearings 42 and 43 in the brackets and 45, respectively, which are secured to the `opposite ends of the base. The short shaft I4 is arranged to be journaled in the bearing 42 and the bearing surface 20 on the mandrel section I2 is arranged to be -journaled in the bearing 43. Whenthe rod I is positioned in the bearings Von theclamp 4I the ratchet gear 2I engages the spring pawlv46 which permits the mandrel section I2fto b e rotated in one direction. The hair strand extending from the scalp passes up between theclamping bar 41 and the edge 48 of the clamp base. The b ar 41 may be locked to the base by any suitable locking device such as the `cam lever B which is pivoted at 5I to the end of the link 52 that is in turn pivoted to the end of the bar 41. A cam 53 on the lever 50 adjacent the pivot 5I is arranged to engage a socket in the other edge 54 of the base 4 I.

A second hair clamp bar 55 is pivoted to the bracket 44 andthebase 4I is recessed at 51 to receive the bar 55. A suitable detent spring latch 58 Vis secured to the base 4I to receive and hold the end of the bar 55 when lowered in clamping position against the shoulder stop 53. Some clearance may be provided for the hair strand in the surface of the basev 4I vand o n the bottom o f the recess 51 as shown at 60 and 6I respectively. VIf this clearance is provided the clamping bar 55, although preferably covered with soft rubber in the same manner as the bar 41, is lnot required to tightly clamp the hair strand passing thereunder but merely holds it in place and protects it from the Aheater which is arranged to encircle the rod'. The clearance E50V should be disposed under the adjacent edge of the rod I0 so that when wound the hair strand passes slightly back and down under the clamping .bar 55.

The purpose of the clamping bar 55 is to hold and shield that portion of the' h'air strand to which a permanent wave has been previously applied when applying a wave to the new growth o'f hair.

To' apply a permanent Wave to the new growth of hair a permanent wave solution is applied onli7 to that portion of the hair that does not have a permanent wave to soften the SS linkage making up the' natural or cystine condition of the hair tubers. The hair strand isthen placed under the finger clamp I5 sothat the end of the old permanent wave adjacent the scalp 'is under or just beyond this clamp and the remaining portion is free as shown in Fig. 5.- T he hair strand is then wound around the rod in theusuaimariner. A portion of .the hair sti-and is preferably wound around the finger clamp I5 to lockitln place. The loose end o'f the strand of hairis permitted to/pass ,oifthe end 'of the rodV and through the fingers while the other portion is being wound around the rod in the usual manner. As the rod is turned and approaches the hair clamp it is fitted on the journals in the usual manner as shown in Fig. 6. The independent parts of the rod may be manipulated to tighten the hair strand relative each other and to the hair clamp and maintain the free strand end straight down from the iinger clamp on the rod. The hair is thus tightly wound on the rod and the free strand end may thenbe covered by a masking material such as tape or foil paper adjacent the rod and placed under the clamping bar which further protects this portion of the hair having the old permanent wave. This masking material may be applied to the hair strand when it is rst wound on the mandrel by placing a portion thereof over the hair and under the finger clamp I6.

The tightly wrapped hair is then covered with a pad anda heater may then be positioned over the covered hair and heat is applied to oxidize the permanent wave solution within the hair tubersand then affix the cross linkage or cysteine condition in the wrapped form to produce a permanent wave therein. Thus a permanent wave is applied to the new growth of long hair by this process with the aid of the two sectioned rod. Unless the rod sections are independently rotatable to enable the proper positioning of the free portion of the strand the hair cannot be properly tightened on the ro'd and a poor wave will result using the same method. However if a single pieced rod is supported solely at the ratchet end, leavingthe end of the strand free to be manipulated from under the unsupported end 'of the rod, this method of waving the new growth may be practiced but the multi-sectioned rod permits a tighter winding of the hair strand which improves tlie wave'.

In carrying out the process 'of applying 'a permanent wave to the new growth of haii' it is necessary to block 'off the scalp in hair strands starting from the center oi the forehead straight back to the nape of the neck and fr'on the top of the head at the front dwn` the sides of the head above and in nfront of the ears.A The remaining strand"s' fro`m the top center of the head to behind the ear s` have to be taken on a second winding as the loose free ends of tlievstraids of formerly waved hair must be protected from the soiutions and thehea't.

The rod Illmay be employed to produce a croquignole Wave in the usual manner or to produce a combination croquignol and spiral wave.

In order to revitalize the hair to produce a natural softness it is necessary to remove th'e natural oils by shampooing the hair prior top the application of a pehnanent thereto. If the hair is excee'dinglydry it need not be shampooed.y

Aftershanipoigth' hair it is dried iii ,the ordinary manner'. If itis found to be too dry, @est is; @message df neteraloils at all, a slight amount of oil such as light mineral oil maybe elllied. thto Stel'fal, .days before the, Dei'manfat. is vgiver.the ,halrshei blocked `into Siransanfd-fin1ylthat portion. that is to receive the permanent wave isl saturated with a perinanent wave solutions'uch asordinarily sold in the @Dre .market fp 'rtiispurpose t 'Ihemhairwstrands are then wrapped or wound orrthe rod s' andY a pad is placed thereover, the heaterisappliedfor theusual time of twelve or thirteen minutesand then removed with the pad. As soon as' the pad is removed the h'ot wound hair is saturated with oil, such as mineral oil. Although the application of the oil expedites in cooling the hair and the rod, the hair strand should preferably remain tightly wound and saturated with cil until completely cold. The hair may then be unwound, shampooed to remove the excess oil then set and dried.

It is highly important to apply the oil to the hot hair just as soon as the heat is turned off and the heater quickly removed as the hot hair absorbs the oil more readily when hot and the oil does not seem to disturb the function of the oxidized hair waving solution. It is thus preferred to energize the heater coils successively rather than simultaneously in order to apply the oil as soon as the heater is deenergized and removed. However in most machines the heaters are turned on and off simultaneously in which case they are all quickly removed at the proper time and a generous amount of the oil is immediately applied.

This process is equally applicable for treating the hair waved by the so-called cold process wherein a hair waving chemical solution is employed to soften or reduce the cystine linkage of the hair which is then tightly wound on the rod. A second chemical solution is applied to the wound hair to neutralize and oxidize the rst or permanent Wave solution and thereby affix the cysteine cross linkage in the tightly wrapped hair to produce the permanent wave therein with little or no noticeable heat. Immediately following the treatment by the oxidizing solution the hair is then saturated with a light oil. However the cold hair will not absorb the oil as readily as it does when hot but the application of the oil immediately after the oxidizing period produces a natural softness which seems to also revitalize the hair.

Another important object which represents an improvement of this invention is in the method of winding the hair strand on the rod. As previously stated the hair is blocked olf in strands on the head leading from the forehead to the nape of the neck. The width dimension of the strands is ordinarily transverse of the head or of the sequence of the strands and adjacent the scalp each strand may be approximately as wide as both mandrel sections I3 and I8. In winding the croquignole the spiral or the new growth of each hair strand, particular attention must be given as to which side of the hair strand is exposed after the permanent wave is applied and the hair is set. Ordinarily that side of the hair strand facing the front or top of the head when the strand is held vertically will be on the surface when the strand is laid back over the head or down the side of the head. This exposed portion of the strand should then be given the tightest and best wave. In order to accomplish this the hair strand, whether wound from the back or the front of the patron, should be wound on the mandrel sections with the front surface of the strand against the rod. In Figs. 5 and 6 the front or forward surface of the strand is underneath and the back of the strand is exposed on the top. If the operator is at the r-ear of the patron the ratchet gear 2l is adjacent the right side of the patron. If the operator is working from the 6 front of the patron the ratchet gear is adjacent the left side of the patron.

By tightly winding the hair strand in this manner on the rod and by using the dual sections to further tighten the strand a very deep Wave may be formed on the hair that is fully exposed in the coiffure. The hair clamps and rods may thus be turned to produce this result at the convenience of the operator. Thus the principal aim is to produce a deep and lasting permanent in the hair.

I claim:

1. A two-piece hair waving mandrel for a single strand of hair comprising two winding sections, a shaft fixed to and extending from one end of the iirst winding section, the second winding section having a bore to receive said shaft and permit it to extend therethrough for the purpose of journaling the second winding section to the first winding section and form a continuous hair winding surface, means interengaging said shaft and said second winding section for retaining both Winding sections in assembled relation, a hair tightening handle means attached to the shaft of the first winding section, and a hair tightening grip means on the second winding section adjacent to the handle, each of said hair tightening means providing a positive means to independently rotate each winding section relative to the other to tighten the single strand of hair thereon.

2. A two-piece hair waving mandrel for a single strand of hair comprising two winding sections, a shaft fixed to and extending from one end of the first winding section, the second winding section having a bore to receive said shaft and permit it to extend therethrough for the purpose of journaling the second winding section to the first winding section and form a continuous hair winding surface, a hair tightening handle means attached to the shaft of the first winding section and a hair tightening grip means on the second winding section adjacent to the handle for independently rotating each winding section relative to the other, and clutch means engaging between the first winding section and the second winding section to permit the handle means and the grip means to each turn both sections in one direction until one tightening section is stopped by the hair strand.

ROSE E. MELARO.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS 

